All species may be grown under the same conditions. They prefer good light, but not direct sunlight as the leaves are thin-textured and may burn. Plants are shallowly rooted and, therefore, grow well in flat seedling trays or in pots in which at least the bottom third is taken up by broken brick or stones. A rich, well drained mix is most suitable and the addition of a little well-matured manure is beneficial. Water freely during active growth, but reduce watering as the leaves begin to yellow (after flowering). Yellowing leaves should be removed since they tend to become brown and soggy if left, and bacterial or fungal rot may set in. During the dormant stage (after flowering, when old leaves die back) plants should be allowed to dry out totally between watering, since rotting of the tubers is common if plants are kept damp at this stage. Once signs of new growth are evident watering may slowly be increased. Plants may be divided at the beginning of the growing season when offsets can be removed from the parent plant by teasing the tubers free and potting plantlets individually. However, plants do not like to be overpotted and it is preferable to leave plants in clumps as they look more attractive when flowering as specimen plants. Plants respond well to fresh potting medium, so it is advisable to leave a plant in the pot no more than two seasons without a change of potting mix.

(Gavin McDonald, S A Orchid Journal, December 1995)

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Grow in pans with stones below and coarse grit with rockwool:Perlite and Styrofoam granules on top. Long tuberoid roots grow with "eyes" for new growths in many places, with watering. Give semi-shade. This species goes dormant after flowering - keep dry for 1-2 months in winter until leaf rosettes appear; then give water.

Display of many small white or lilac pink spotted flowers is magical; an excellent Disa companion.

(Louis Vogelpoel, personal communication, January 1996)

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Plants are of easy culture in a shallow pot or pan with a medium of coarse sand and leaf mould. Keep the plants well watered throughout the growing season, but provide a short dry rest when leaves die. Feed with a dilute fertilizer solution and avoid buildup of salts. Allow semi-shade, cool to intermediate temperatures, good air movement and moderate to high relative humidity. Good clones selected for vigor and color make spectacular specimen plants.

(L. Vogelpoel in "The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Orchids", Ed. A. Pridgeon)

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Growers in the Northwest have grown Stenoglottis successfully in New Zealand sphagnum moss. My favourite mix used to be rockwool with some shredded Styrofoam granules (beanbag filler) to help aerate the mix. This mix does not deteriorate and the plants do well in it. However, an even better mix may be 3 parts of rockwool (or "sunk" bark, i.e. bark that is has soaked up enough water to sink), 3 parts of coarse sand, 3 parts of good quality potting soil, 1 part of Perlite (or pumice), and a pinch of charcoal. Good drainage is very important. A top dressing of small stones may be helpful to reduce the growth of algae and moss on the surface of the pot. During the summer months, they do very well outdoors in open shade, with perhaps a little morning sun. If there is any danger of frost they should be brought indoors.

Stenoglottis woodii (photo) flowers in early to mid-summer, while the two other species, S. fimbriata (photo 1, photo 2) and Sngl. longifolia (photo 1, photo 2), flower in late summer to fall. Sngl. woodii is a great all round plant - the spike is quite compact and this species, with its semi-glossy leaves, makes a good pot plant in the house. Sngl. fimbriata has wonderful dark spots on the leaves, and a good specimen is worth keeping for its foliage alone. Sngl. longifolia has the most attractive flowers and grows into a big specimen plant boasting many spikes. These spikes can eventually get a bit on the leggy side. All three species are cross fertile and the hybrids (Stenoglottis Venus, Sngl. Bill Fogarty and Sngl. Longwood) are well worth growing.